Torque wrench 20-200ft-lbs,
deep well sockets,
and open-ended wrenches: 9/16”, 5/8”, 3/4”, 11/16”, 15/16”, 1-1/8”,
measuring tape,
grease gun,
all-purpose marine-grade grease.

Before beginning the installation of your new hitch, you should remove any old equipment you have on the trailer. Also, remove your gas bottles and set them aside. This is necessary when you get to the Frame Bracket installation. Many people take this opportunity to clean up the tongue of the trailer by removing any rust and touching up the painted steel.

The installation time for a Jim Hensley ProPride 3P® Hitch can vary depending on factors such as the installer's level of expertise and experience, the condition of the vehicle, and the tools being used. On average, the installation process takes 3-4 hours.

THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO REPLACE THE COMPLETE INSTRUCTION MANUAL!

ENSURE ALL BOLTS ARE TIGHTENED TO SPEC. (Do a quick once over)

With the trailer unhitched, grab the main and rotate it to the extreme left and the extreme right to ensure it does not make contact with any obstructions.

Bring weight distribution jacks up to about 3-4” showing.

Drop the weight onto the tow vehicle (Raise the tongue jack)

Check the front wheel well measurement to see if you are close to returning the weight. (Back to within 1⁄2” of the non-hitched measurement, but not lower than the original measurement) **May not apply to ¾ or 1 ton applications

Check the front-to-back measurement of the trailer, is it measuring level to the ground front to back or slightly nose down?

WITH TRAILER MEASURING LEVEL (PARALLEL TO GROUND) AND TOW VEHICLE AT REGULAR RIDE HEIGHT, NOTE THE FOLLOWING MEASUREMENTS

USE THE ABOVE MEASUREMENTS TO DETERMINE THE ADJUSTABLE HITCH BAR CONFIGURATION.

TOW VEHICLE – (COUPLER HEIGHT – 5.5”) = HITCH DROP OR RISE.

NOTE: Tow vehicle's rear end will settle with the weight applied and may factor into the overall drop required. Figure at least 1.0” settle to Tow Vehicle.

The goal of hitch bar assembly is to have your trailer measuring parallel to the ground when hitched up and ready to tow.

Step 1: Determine your tow vehicle receiver height. Measure from the ground to the top of your tow vehicle hitch receiver opening. Tow Vehicle = _____

Step 2: Determine your trailer ball height. Measure from the ground to the top of the coupler on your trailer. Trailer = _____

Step 3: Determine your hitch box height. Subtract 5-1/2” from the trailer measurement you determined in step 2. Hitch Box = ______

Step 4: Determine if the Hitch Bar Receiver End plates are installed UP or DOWN. If your Tow Vehicle number is GREATER THAN or EQUAL TO your Hitch Box number use 4A or 4B. If your Tow Vehicle number is LESS THAN your Hitch Box number use 4C or 4D. Note: The Hitch Bar Receiver End is shown in the picture above with the side plates facing UP.

Tow Vehicle Higher Than Hitch Box

A. If your Tow Vehicle number from step 1 is 4” or MORE THAN (higher off the ground) your Hitch Box number from step 3, use the 5/8” Hitch Pin to pin the Hitch Bar Receiver End in your tow vehicle receiver with the side plates DOWN. If not proceed to 4B.

B. If your Tow Vehicle number from step 1 is LESS THAN 4” OR EQUAL TO your Hitch Box number from step 3, use the 5/8” Hitch Pin to pin the Hitch Bar Receiver End in your tow vehicle receiver with the side plates UP.

Tow Vehicle Lower Than Hitch Box

C. If your Tow Vehicle number from step 1 is 4” or LESS THAN (lower to the ground) your Hitch Box number from step 3, use the 5/8” Hitch Pin to pin the Hitch Bar Receiver End in your tow vehicle receiver with the side plates UP. If not proceed to 4D.

D. If your Tow Vehicle number from step 1 is LESS THAN your Hitch Box Number AND LESS THAN 4” OR EQUAL TO your Hitch Box number, use the 5/8” Hitch Pin to pin the Hitch Bar Receiver End in your tow vehicle receiver with the side plates DOWN.

Step 5: Insert the Tilt Adjustment Pin and (2)-Washers (2 extra washers are provided) in the upper tilt adjustment pin hole. Note: If your side plates are facing down the hole is at the end of the 2”x2” bar. If your side plates are facing UP the hole is through the spacer between the side plates.

*TILT PIN MUST BE INSTALLED AND WILL ALWAYS BE PLACED AT THE TOP*

Step 6: Hitch Bar Hitch End assembly. If you used 4A or 4B above your Hitch Bar Hitch End will be like shown in the parts picture above with the adjustment holes facing UP. If you used 4C or 4D above your Hitch Bar Hitch End will have the holes facing DOWN.

Step 7: What is the difference between your Tow Vehicle number and your Hitch Box Number? Difference = _____

Step 8: Slide your Hitch Bar Hitch End up or down between the side plates until the difference between the top of the Hitch Bar Receiver End and the top of the Hitch Bar Hitch End is approximately EQUAL TO the difference figured in step 7.

Step 9: Insert the 5/8 x 4” Hex Pivot Bolt into the LOWER pivot hole in the side plates and through the Hitch Bar Hitch End holes that line up when you have the proper offset from step 8. Place the 5/8 Split Lock Washer on the pivot bolt and snug fit the 5/8 Hex nut. This is only snug fit at this time and will be wrenched tight later. Note: This step uses the HOLE in the side plate and NOT THE SLOT. The SLOT is the lowest location for a bolt on the side plate but in this step, we use the HOLE above the slot.

Step 10: Raise the Hitch Bar Hitch End by hand until it contacts the Tilt Adjustment Pin.

Step 11: Insert (2) 5/8 x 4” Adjustment Bolts into the slots in the side plates. Use (2) 5/8 USA Thick Flat Washers for each bolt. One washer under the head of the bolt and one on the thread end of the bolt. Snug fit the 5/8 Hex nut on each adjustment bolt.

Step 12: With all three hex bolts snug fit raise the Hitch Bar Hitch End by hand until the slack in the Tow Vehicle receiver is taken out. The Hitch Bar Receiver End will be tight up against the top of the 2x2 receiver at this point. Adding or subtracting washers may be required once initial weight is applied to the tow vehicle, this is to fine-tune the Hitch Bar orientation and does NOT have to be completed to finish the installation. Hitch Bar may have a downward pitch to it, this is OKAY.

Step 13: Use a 15/16” socket and 15/16” open-end wrench to tighten ALL three bolts on the hitch bar to 200 ft-lbs.

Note: The OCL wrench provided is a 15/16” socket with a breaker bar that can also be used to torque these bolts.

Step 1: Measure from the center of the trailer coupler along the frame to 22” to use as a point of reference. (The final placement will vary on where the center of the Yoke tail ends up, could be up to 1.5-2.0” different) Mark the frame at this location on each side. This is the point at which the U-Bolts slide down over the top of the frame. Loosely install the center bracket at this time, final torque will be performed after yoke tail test fitment.

Step 2: Note: If the trailer has a gas bottle tray screwed to the frame at this location remove it temporarily. If the tray is welded, it is necessary to drill two holes for the u-bolt to slide down through the tray (this is very uncommon.) Be sure to drill at 1” away from the edge of the tray so the bottles do not sit on top of the u-bolts.

Note: Before drilling or permanently mounting the center bracket, wait to test fit the yoke tail for the correct distance

Step 3: Slide the U-Bolts over the top of the frame pointing down.

Step 4: Raise the Frame Bracket upward against the bottom of the frame and insert the 4 U-Bolt ends through the slots in the Frame Bracket.

Step 5: Slide the Frame Bracket Plates on the ends of the U-Bolts and into the Frame Bracket channel. Snug fit the 7/16 Lock Washers and Hex Nuts up against the plates.

Step 6: Center the two Frame Bracket down tubes directly in-line with the coupler.

Note: Set aside the 1/2 x 4-1/2 Hex Bolt, Support Roller Sleeve and 1/2 Hex Lock Nut for use during Yoke installation

*Leave the frame bracket loose for now, it will be tightened later when the yoke is installed and checked for proper alignment.

**When reinstalled, the propane tank tray may require spacers or longer screws to sit above ubolts.

***U bolts may stretch after the initial tow, retorquing to spec may be required.

Step 1: Remove the Spring Bar Inner Bushing from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit with a 9/16” socket and a 9/16” open-end wrench. Remove one side first and leave the other side installed at this point. This part is shown in the above picture bottom between the spring bars.

Step 2: Liberally grease the end of the spring bar with all-purpose marine grease.

Step 3: Slide the Spring Bar Inner Bushing you removed in step 2 down over the end of the spring bar. Insert the spring bar in the plate end of the bushing.

Step 4: Line up the slot in the bushing with the slot in the spring bar. Insert one Spring Bar Retainer Disk through the slot on the bushing and into the slot on the spring bar.

Note: The grease will help to hold it in place but make sure it doesn’t drop out when you insert the spring bar back into the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit

Step 1: Remove the 3/4” (1-1/8” socket) hardware from the front of the Yoke. Shown above at bottom of the picture. Do not remove the inner steel bushing. Leave inserted in the bronze bushing.

Note: Pay attention to the order of the hardware. E.g. – Washer under the head of the bolt.

Step 2: Remove your hitch cover. (2) – 1/2" (3/4” socket) Bolts under the cover attach it to the Main Hitch Unit. Set aside and reinstall after Yoke is installed.

Step 3: Slide the Yoke under the trailer A-frame and behind the tongue jack. Bushings that you removed the hardware from should face the Main Hitch Unit. The top of the picture above, the Yoke tail, will point toward the trailer.

Step 4: Raise the front of the Yoke to align the bushings on the front of the Yoke with the holes in the side of the Main Hitch Unit. These holes are on each side of the hitch ball.

Step 5: Insert the 3/4" bolts (1-1/8” socket), with the 3/4” flat washer under the head, through the Yoke bushings, and into the 3/4" hole on the side of the Main Hitch Unit. Place the 3/4" split lock washer on the inside of the Main Hitch Unit and thread the bolt into the 3/4" hex nut. Use your 1-1/8” open-end wrench and 1-1/8” socket to tighten. Take this slow to ensure you do not cross-thread the bolt.

3/4" (1-1/8” socket) Yoke Hardware shown installed in the Main Hitch Unit with the cover off.

Step 6: Tighten ONLY the two 3/4” Bolts (1-1/8” socket) on the main. These bolts MUST BE TIGHT. Torque to 175 ft-lbs. Repeat on both sides of Yoke.

Step 7: Unlatch the one Over-Center-Latch (OCL) from the hitch bar.

Step 8: Note: Trailer tires should be chocked before this step or whenever you unhitch from the trailer. Pull the tow vehicle forward to clear the Hitch Bar from the Main Hitch Unit hitch box.

Step 9: Raise the Yoke tail (pointing toward the trailer and the top of the picture above) to between the two downward tubes of the frame bracket. The frame bracket down tubes should be at the midpoint of the Yoke tail. You may need to adjust the frame bracket forward or backward to accomplish this. The frame bracket is adjustable for different frame angles.

Step 10: Insert the 1/2 x 4-1/2 Yoke Tail support bolt through the down tubes with the Yoke Tail Support Roller under the Yoke Tail and between the tubes. Tighten the 1/2“Locking Nut (3/4” socket) on the support bolt to take up any slack in the bolt.

Note: If the Yoke Tail can be moved from side to side, tighten the nut more on the Yoke Tail Support Bolt. Check this after a few miles of towing.

Step 11: Loosen the side bolts on the Yoke. The trailer side bolt is a pivot bolt. The bolt in the slot, toward the tow vehicle, should be adjusted up or down until there is approximately 1-2” between the Yoke and the bottom of the trailer A-frame.

Note: The Yoke should be approximately parallel to the trailer frame. Yoke pictured under trailer frame 1-2”

Step 12: Tighten the side Yoke bolts shown in the picture to the right to 60 ft-lbs. (3/4” Socket)

Step 13: Assure Center Frame Bracket is centered, and the yoke tail is centered on the roller. Tighten frame bracket Ubolts to 55 ft-lbs.

Number 1: Adjust the OCL latch screws so that they snap tightly over the center and into the hitch bar. These screws are installed by the factory but can be lengthened (unscrewed) if the OCL latch is too loose and does not snap over center onto the hitch bar. If needed, adjust by ½ turns.

Number 2: Check that the hitch bar bolts are tight and torqued. These should be very tight, with 200 ft-lbs or more of torque.

Number 3: Check that the two ¾” (1-18” socket) yoke bolts to the main are tight. 175 ft-lbs of torque.

Number 4: Check that all other bolts and nuts are tight.

Note: If you did not start with the trailer and tow the vehicle on level ground you should hitch up and tow it to level ground to check that the trailer and hitch are level. If you are not on level ground you can check that the trailer and tow vehicle are parallel to the ground by measuring a point at the front of the trailer and the rear of the trailer when hitched. If they are close to equal, you will be level when towing.

Step 1: Chock your trailer tires.

Step 2: Back your tow vehicle slowly toward the front of the Main Hitch Unit until you are about 2” from the hitch.

Step 3: Adjust the tongue jack until the hitch bar is approximately centered in the 3”x3” hitch box opening. Adjust your weight distribution jacks to about 5-6” from the base. (May need to step on the spring bar to straighten out the linkage)

Step 4: Back slowly into the Main Hitch Unit inserting your Hitch Bar Hitch End into the hitch box. When the wedges are seated in the hitch box you will have approximately 1/8” of the wedge showing out of the front of the hitch. *If the hitch head starts moving to one side, stop. See if you can latch one of the Over-Center-Latches to pull the bar in. If not, adjust the weight distribution jacks down slightly to match the pitch of the hitch bar. 

Step 5: Latch the Over-Center-Latch (OCL) on to the Hitch Bar Tab on each side. Use the OCL Wrench included with the hitch (15/16” Socket and Breaker Bar).

Step 6: Insert the 7/16” Lynch Pin in the Hitch Bar Tab and snap the wring down over the tab on each side.

Step 7: Raise the Weight Distribution Jack with the 3/4” Ratchet Wrench included with the hitch. Raise the Jack on each side until you either lift the trailer off of the tongue jack or raise it to your desired ride.

Step 8: Raise the tongue jack.

Step 9: IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – Route your tow chains UNDER the Main Hitch Unit and BETWEEN where the Spring Bars insert in the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit. When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit.

Step 10: Route your electrical connection over the top of the Main Hitch Unit and plug it into the vehicle.

Step 11: Hook up your emergency brake cable.

Unhitching properly will make your next hitch up go more smoothly. Hitching up is largely a result of how you previously unhitched. Once you make it routine to follow these steps, the Main Hitch Unit will be set for your next hitching.

You can unhitch at any angle in relation to your trailer. Once you have unhitched just leave the Main Hitch Unit hitch box facing in the direction you unhitched so you will be able to hitch up at the same angle.

Step 1: Chock your trailer tires.

Step 2: Lower your tongue jack until it takes the load off of the back of your tow vehicle. (Tow vehicle at normal ride height)

Step 3: Unhook your chains, electrical, and emergency brake cable.

Step 4: Lower your Weight Distribution Jack until the Spring Bar becomes loose. Kick the spring bar with your foot to recognize that there is no tension on it. At that point, STOP lowering the jack, approximately 5-6” high from the base. Repeat this on the other side. Note: The Weight Distribution Jacks will lower in relation to how level the tow vehicle is when you are unhitching. You can unhitch when not level but just note that your jacks will not be all the way bottomed out.

Step 5: Unlatch the OCL on each side with the OCL wrench.

Step 6: Pull the tow vehicle away from the hitch. If you have released the tension from the spring bars the hitch bar should slide smoothly out of the front of the hitch.

*Picture how a wheelbarrow functions, the weight distribution jacks being arms lifting up. As the jacks lift, the main hitch opening lowers the angle, as you lower the bars, the opening raises. Keeping jacks at 5-6” up gives you a more parallel opening to the ground.

Unlevel Lot? Angle of stinger/ main hitch head mismatched?

Here's the process to make it work:

Step 1: Back up to within 6-12" of the hitch bar inserting into the hitch head.

Step 2: Get out of the tow vehicle and look at the hitch bar. Notice the angle coming in relation to the hitch. Is it pointed up or down?

Step 3: Take a mental snapshot of the angle, or an actual snapshot if you have a device handy.

Step 4: Remove the hitch bar from the tow vehicle and place it in the hitch head.

Step 5: Notice the angle of the hitch bar coming out of the hitch head.

Step 6: Remember the previous angle of the bar coming out of the tow vehicle and compare it to what you see coming out of the hitch head.

Step 7: Adjust the weight distribution jacks until the angle mirrors what you saw coming out of the tow vehicle. For example, the angle out of tow vehicle was UP so the angle out of hitch box needs to be DOWN to match it.

Step 8: Remove the hitch bar from the hitch head and place it back in tow vehicle.

Step 9: Back into the hitch box.

These steps will get the angles correct and make the hitch bar slide right in.

This section will detail the basic setup process for adjusting the ProPride 3P® weight distribution jacks. Below are the steps you will need to follow to ensure that your ProPride 3P® Hitch is set up correctly. Should you change tow vehicles or trailers in the future you will want to do this again to make sure it is set up for the new tow vehicle or trailer.

The purpose of the weight distribution jacks is to remove some of the weight added to the tow vehicle’s rear axle and place some of it on the tow vehicle’s front axle and some on the trailer axles. When properly set up, the trailer should be level or slightly nose down and the tow vehicle has settled (or squatted) evenly front to rear or slightly lower in the rear.

For optimum performance of the weight distribution hitch, the tow vehicle should be loaded similarly as to when you would be towing. That means that you should load all the people and cargo into the tow vehicle as if you were going on a trip with your trailer. It may also help to have a friend take the measurements outlined below, or find a friend that weighs about the same as you to simulate you in the tow vehicle while you take the measurements.

If the tow vehicle has an automatic suspension leveling system, you will need to deactivate it before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle, but after passenger and or cargo weight has been added. You may optionally set the auto leveling system to the dynamic mode that is used when in tow at higher speeds to determine the receiver height to use for the hitch bar assembly. *This does not apply to all types of auto-leveling systems.

If the tow vehicle has an airbag system, be sure to have this at its lowest operational setting.

Step 1: Level the trailer (Measuring parallel to the ground)

Find a level piece of pavement to park on.

With the trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle, use a tape measure and the tongue jack to level the trailer.

Measure from the ground to some part on the trailer (like the frame) at the front and at the rear of the trailer.

Use the tongue jack to raise or lower the front of the trailer until it is parallel to the ground. (The trailer may not be “level”, but it needs to be parallel to the ground.)

Step 2: Measurements

Now that you have the trailer level, it’s time to take some measurements on both the trailer and the tow vehicle.

Use a piece of tape to mark each spot because you will need to take the measurements again later.

Put a piece of tape at the spots you measured on the trailer to get it parallel to the ground.

Put a piece of tape at the top of the front and rear wheel openings on one side Write down your measurements. (You should have these already)

Tow vehicle front wheel opening height: ________

Tow vehicle rear wheel opening height: ________

Front of trailer height: ________

Rear of trailer height: ________

Measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler: ________

Step 3: Hitch it up 

Chock your trailer tires.

Back your tow vehicle slowly toward the front of the Main Hitch Unit until you are about 2” from the hitch.

Adjust Weight Distribution Jacks to 5”-6” to adjust the Main Hitch Units opening to match the incoming hitch bar assembly. You may need to step on the spring bars to straighten the jack linkage.

Adjust the tongue jack until the hitch bar is approximately centered in the 3”x3” hitch box opening.

Back slowly into the Main Hitch Unit inserting your Hitch Bar Hitch End into the hitch box. When the wedges are seated in the hitch box you will have approximately 1/8” of the wedge showing out of the front of the hitch.

Latch the Over-Center-Latch (OCL) on to the Hitch Bar Tab on each side. Use the OCL Wrench included with the hitch (15/16” Socket and Breaker Bar).

Insert the 7/16” Lynch Pin in the Hitch Bar Tab and snap the wring down over the tab on each side.

Raise the Weight Distribution Jack with the 3/4” Ratchet Wrench included with the hitch. Raise the Jack on each side until you either lift the trailer off of the tongue jack or you raise it to your desired ride.

Raise the tongue jack.

IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – Route your tow chains UNDER the Main Hitch Unit and BETWEEN where the Spring Bars insert in the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit. When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit.

Route your electrical connection over the top of the Main Hitch Unit and plug it into the vehicle.

Hook up your emergency brake cable.

*NOTE~ The pitch of the main Hitch Unit can be controlled by the raising and lowering of the weight distribution jacks. RAISING the jacks will pitch the head DOWNWARD, and LOWERING the jacks will pitch the head UPWARD. This can be helpful when hitching/ unhitching when the tow vehicle is not on the same plain as the travel trailer.

Step 4: Measure again 

Take the same measurements you did earlier and compare them to the originals, log these measurements for reference.

The “ideal” result is that the trailer sits level front to rear, or slightly nose down. The front of the tow vehicle at or within ½” of unhitched measurement, but not lower than unloaded height, and the tow vehicle squating 1”-2” in the rear (depending on total tongue weight).

**NOTE** ¾ Ton and 1 Ton tow vehicles may not reflect weight transfer with measurement technique and may require getting scale results to fine-tune.

If the ideal result has not been obtained, don’t worry, it rarely happens on the first try. Depending on where things are not ideal will determine where you need to make the adjustments.

Let’s start with the tow vehicle.

A. Does the tow vehicle squat correctly (a little or none in the front and the same or a little more in the rear)?

o If yes, move on to D. 

o If not, go on to B.

B. Is the front of the tow vehicle higher with the trailer attached than it was without the trailer attached?

o If not, move on to C.

o If yes, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase the height of the weight distribution jacks.

Depending on how much the difference is, will determine the amount raised.

Start by raising ½” to 1”. After making the adjustment, remeasure and start again at A.

If this does not correct the problem, it may also be necessary to add washers to the tilt pin or readjust the height of the adjustable hitch bar.

C. Does the rear of the tow vehicle drop more than 1”-2” with the trailer attached?

o If not, move on to D.

o If so, there may not be enough tension on the spring bars.

You will need to increase the height of the weight distribution jacks. The measurement of the drop will determine the amount you will need to raise the weight distribution jacks.

Start by raising ½” to 1” increments and re-measuring. If this does not correct the problem, it may also be necessary to add washers to the tilt pin or readjust the height of the adjustable hitch bar.

After making the adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.

D. Are the weight distribution jacks raised to 2” or higher?

o If so, move on to E.

o If higher than 2”, it may be necessary to add washers to the tilt pin located in the adjustable hitch bar to change the pitch of the STINGER. Add the washer/ washers, and start again at A.

E. Is the trailer parallel to the ground or slightly lower in the front than the rear?

o If so, this should do it, but check out F below (just in case).

o If not, move on to F.

F. Is the trailer higher in the front than the rear?

o If not, move on to G.

o If so, you need to lower position of the adjustable hitch bar to accommodate the difference.

If you have gotten this far, that means the tow vehicle is sitting reasonably well.

o Lowering the hitch bar will change both front and rear trailer measurements. Ensure this change is absolutely necessary before applying the change.

o If you choose to make the change, re-measure, and start again at A

G. Since you’ve gotten this far, the front of the trailer must be sitting lower than the rear, so here is the final question…

o Is the height of the Hitch Bar adjustable by less than the difference in height between the front and rear of the trailer? Now that may sound confusing so let me give you an example.

o If the trailer is 2” or more lower in the front than the rear and the hitch bar can be adjusted in 1” increments, then you need to make that adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.

o But if the trailer is only 1” lower in the front than the rear and the Hitch Bar can be adjusted in 1” increments, then that’s it! *Most ¾ ton and 1-ton tow vehicles like the nose of the trailer to be slightly lower than the rear.

Make good notes as you make your adjustments so if you make a change and it makes things worse instead of better, you may need to make a different type of adjustment.

Congratulations! You have successfully set up the weight distribution side of your ProPride Hitch.

Now that you have everything hitched up and level, this would be a good time to see exactly how tall your trailer is.

o Measure from the ground to what you think is the highest point on the side of the trailer.

o Then climb up on the roof* to see if there is anything taller than where you measured to, like a roof-top air conditioning unit or vent cover.

o Add the appropriate distance and add a few more inches for a safety margin.

o Write this measurement down in your manual. You could also tape and stick it on the front windshield pillar (driver’s side of course) or some other convenient place. This way, when you pull into a gas station or approach a low bridge or other structure, you’ll know if your trailer will clear it or not.

 Keep your 3P clean and free of debris. Treat your hitch like you treat your car and trailer!

Add Marine Grade Grease

o Spring Bars

Apply through zerk fittings, every 1000 miles or as needed. If you hear any noises coming from this area, check to make sure they are adequately greased. Grease should be slowly pumped in until you see it starting to appear where the spring bar is inserted.

o Ball

Apply enough to cover the ball. This should be done every 12-18 months or as needed.

Lube/ condition (silicone spray) moving parts on main and jacks

o OCL (Over Center Latches) and OCL Screws

Apply spray, move OCL back and forth assuring smooth movement. Apply spray to the OCL screw (keep in mind position) screw in a couple turns each way to make sure they have smooth non-binding movement.

Spray can be used on hitch bar/ main opening and moving jack linkage as well.

Bearing Inspection every 4 years or 50,000 miles. Repack or replacement may be needed. (Complete bearing kit available here)

Chips or scratches to powder coat finish

o Clean the affected spot thoroughly with soap and water to remove any existing corrosion, dirt, or debris. (prep surface) If needed, lightly sand to remove. Apply Phantom Black or similar paint to the affected area.

All-in-one Hitch Maintenance Kit Available at www.ProPrideHitch.com

Example: If your jack height is 7 1/4” (D) on the legacy jack, that will be 3” (D) on the V2 jack application.

What Products Are Covered

All ProPride Hitch, LLC (ProPride) 3P hitch systems and components manufactured on or after Aug 01, 2010.

Lifetime Warranty

ProPride warrants to the original purchaser that its 3P Hitch and components shall be free from defects in material and workmanship for as long as the original purchaser owns the product.

Exclusive Remedy

ProPride will, at its discretion, repair or replace the affected components of any defective 3P Hitch, repair or replace the entire defective part. In all cases, a reasonable time period must be allowed for warranty repairs to be completed.

What You Must Do

In order to make a claim under these warranties:

o You must be the original purchaser of the ProPride Hitch or hitch component.

o You must promptly notify ProPride after detection of any defect, but in any case within the applicable warranty period of such defect, and provide us with the part and or serial number and any substantiation of such defect which may include, but is not limited to, the return of part(s) that we may reasonably request.

o The 3P hitch and all of its components must have been installed and maintained in accordance with good industry practice and any specific ProPride recommendations, including those specified in ProPride's current manual.

Exclusions

These warranties do not extend to and do not cover defects caused by:

o The improper routing of chains as defined in the manual.

o Normal wear and tear

o Improper installation

o Unreasonable use (including trailer overloading or exceeding maximum weight rating of 20,000# and failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance as specified in ProPride's manual.

o Use of any other hitch bar extensions or add-ons without prior written ProPride approval.

o Any damage whatsoever caused by or related to any alteration of the 3P hitch and or components including welding, non ProPride add-ons.

o Improper torque values and torquing to the wrong spec causing damage. (The proper torquing procedure and torque values are contained in ProPride's current manual) Improper alignment.

o Improper or lack of maintenance.

o Cosmetic finish or corrosion

o Parts not supplied by ProPride

Limitations

o In all cases, ProPride reserves the right to fully satisfy its obligations under the Lifetime Warranty by refunding the lesser of the original purchase price and the then-current list price of the defective hitch or ProPride component (or, if the part has been discontinued, of the most nearly comparable current product).

o ProPride reserves the right to furnish for any substitute replacement component or product in the event a hitch or any component of the hitch is discontinued or is otherwise available.

o These warranties are nontransferable.

General

THE FOREGOING WARRANTIES ARE EXCLUSIVE AND IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, WHETHER WRITTEN, ORAL OR IMPLIED, IN FACT OR IN LAW (INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY AGAINST INFRINGEMENT OR OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE).

These warranties give you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

PROPRIDE HEREBY EXCLUDES INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, LOSS OF TIME, INCONVENIENCE, LOSS OF USE, TOWING FEES, TELEPHONE CALLS, COST OF MEALS OR LODGING, FOR ANY BREACH OF ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY.

Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, or the exclusion or limitation if incidental or consequential damages, so the above exclusion or limitation may not apply to you.

Inquires regarding these warranties should be sent to:
ProPride Industries 10350 North Holly Rd. Holly, MI 48442
Customerservice@ProPrideHitch.com or register here

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) – The maximum allowable total weight of a vehicle or trailer that is loaded. It includes the weight of the vehicle or trailer itself plus the passengers, fuel, and cargo.

Gross Trailer Weight Rating (GTWR) – The maximum allowable load of a trailer that is loaded. It includes the weight of the trailer itself plus the fluids and cargo. Note: this is sometimes designated as the GVWR of the trailer.

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) – The maximum total load of a towed combination.

Tongue Weight (TW) – The static downward force exerted on the hitch ball by the trailer coupler.

Tow Rating – The allowable weight limit for a tow vehicle. GCWR minus the GVWR of the tow vehicle.

Tow Angle – The angle created between the tow vehicle and trailer when the trailer moves away from the centerline of the tow combination. A trailer in line with a tow vehicle has zero degrees of tow angle. A tow angle of zero to a maximum of ninety degrees allows the trailer to be towed around a corner.

Pivot Point – The point at which the towed trailer pivots to create a tow angle.

Pivot Point Projection™ - Projection of the trailer's effective pivot point.

Weight Distributing – The act of distributing the load exerted on the hitch ball, the tongue weight, onto the tow vehicle and trailer axles.

Wheelbase – The horizontal distance between the center of the front axle and the center of the rear axle on the tow vehicle.

Friction Control – Damping of trailer sway by friction between two surfaces. The friction control works by "stiffening" the connection between TV and TT. This causes the combined mass and rotational inertia of the TV and TT to resist the forces which are attempting to make the TT "sway".

Overhang – The horizontal distance from the center of the rear axle to the rear end of the tow vehicle. • Oscillating or Oscillation – A movement back and forth between two limits over time.

Amplitude – The displacement of the oscillation wave.

Yaw - Yaw is the side-to-side movement of the trailer on the hitch ball.

Trailer Sway – Oscillating tow angles. A tow angle created by turning a corner IS NOT trailer sway. Trailer sway is defined as OSCILLATING TOW ANGLES. That is multiple tow angles over a period of time. The trailer continues to oscillate away from the centerline of the tow combination at various amplitudes.